Isole Sanguinarie

Not far from Ajaccio on the west coast of Corsica is the Iles Sanguinaires archipelago, consisting of four volcanic rock islands that are currently uninhabited.

The largest of the four islands is called Mezzu Mare or Grande Sanguinaria and on the summit has a maritime lighthouse dating back to 1844 and automated in 1984.

A hospital was once built on the island for sailors returning from Africa; now the former lazaret is in ruins.

In the past, the building on which the lighthouse stands was inhabited by lighthouse keepers and a small community lived on the island, but it has been since 1985 that the last inhabitants abandoned it and it is currently inhabited only by wild animals and sea birds.

Numerous animal and plant species grow on these islands that are extremely rare and some even found only in this area of Corsica; the whole area, of about 405 hectares, has been declared a site of community interest.

The anchorages of the Sanguinaire Islands are a great place to stop and swim invery clean water. When the wind picks up, it is not possible to stay and it is better to move to nearby Ajaccio, which has two ports equipped for boating that are very crowded but still where there is always room.

Ajaccio is ridged by all winds but one must leave it without delay when the mistral blows. From the Sanguinaires Islands lighthouse you can admire the view of Ajaccio, provided the weather conditions are favorable; at night the city’s light show is enchanting.

When there is bad weather, one must bypass the islands and pass south of Tabernacle Rock, marked by a red buoy, to reach Ajaccio.

The islet that lies further north is separated from land by the so-called Sanguinaire Pass, which can be entered by keeping to its northern half; it can be passed only if the weather is good, no wind is blowing and the sea is calm.

In the Gulf of Ajaccio when the libeccio and easterly and southerly winds blow there is a strong undertow. When there are rough seas the anchorages of the Sanguinaire Islands cannot be reached, and there are numerous tourist buses that leave from Ajaccio and take people to the vicinity of the islands, which in good weather are much visited.

The anchorages are also crowded, but only with calm seas, no wind, and mild temperatures. This area of Corsica is also quite expensive, and going ashore to shop or have lunch in some restaurants can be very expensive.