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Argostoli

Kefalonia is the largest of the Ionian islands, one of the most visited and certainly the one that offers more (and better) opportunities for the yachtsman, being able to count on two ports, two marinas and some good anchorages.

Known to the chronicles (ours) mainly for the famous massacre that took place there in 1943 and cost the lives of five thousand of our countrymen soldiers, Kefalonia was also the scene of another tragic event in recent times, namely the earthquake that partially devastated the island and its settlements in 1953, and of which ample traces can still be seen.

But Kefalonia is of course not only this. An island rich in history, once the domain of Ulysses-who, according to some, had his capital here and not on nearby Ithaca-it is characterized by the presence of even important mountainous reliefs (Mount Eno rises to 1620 meters above sea level), extensive forests with even indigenous species of pine, lush cultivations of vines and oil whose products are exported all over the world. Having long been the domain of the Venetians, it still bears the memory of them, with houses built in their style and a beautiful castle that can be visited in Assos.

There is no shortage of spectacular beaches, the most popular of which is located on the northwest coast, Myrtos Beach; on the tourism front it can also count on some beautiful caves and especially the fascinating Lake Melissani (also known as the “cave of the nymphs”), an underground lake housed in a cave composed half of fresh water and can be visited by special tourist boats.

On the west coast is Assos, a picturesque fishing village set on a narrow isthmus of land: beyond the fact that it does not offer good shelter and is not an ideal place to stay overnight, it is worth seeing by virtue of the beauty of the place, the turquoise water, and the coves with very white beaches that are in close proximity.

We conclude our tourist roundup with Fiskardo, a village located at the northern end of the island and untouched by the ’53 earthquake: it is the only one left intact and well worth a visit to appreciate its architecture, pastel-colored Venetian houses, beautiful waterfront taverns, and, why not, the walk through the pine trees leading to the Venetian lighthouse above the village.

Argostoli, the capital of the forested island of Kefalonia, is located on the west coast in a narrow, uniquely shaped bay. For the yachtsman looking for some tourist attractions, the town offers a few interesting museums, including one on the massacre of Italian soldiers at the hands of the Nazis that took place on the very island in 1943. Also worth visiting not far from the town is an unusual water wheel … from the sea, which once powered a nearby mill; the entire island of Kefalonia is crisscrossed by underground canals that connect the various caves and make water flow beneath its surface.

Getting to Argostoli is not as easy as it sounds: the ports and town are within a narrow, picturesque gulf, which has rocks and sandbars outcropping at the mouth; turn at least 200 meters from the coast, paying attention.

Two options open up once you enter the gulf: the public harbor on the west side, near the village, and the incomplete marina on the opposite side, to the east, with its trove of abandoned boats. The marina offers excellent shelter, better than the harbor, and greater depths (3.5-4 meters versus the harbor’s 2 meters average), but it has no services and is at least a 15-minute walk from the village.

Not that services abound at the public port, unfortunately: two water points, possibility of refueling fuel, upon request, at a gas station that delivers to the port. That’s about it. In the village, however, there are some well-stocked nautical accessory stores.

Argostoli has on its side the fact that it offers excellent shelter from almost all winds, and this is the main reason why this landing place is chosen.

Enrico Gusella

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Enrico Gusella

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