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Gaios

Gaios is the main port of theisland of Paxos, a beloved summer tourist destination that is part of the Ionian group of islands, frequented by many Italians and Greeks who choose it as a convenient destination for “out of ports” trips during the weekend.

This is a peculiar natural inlet characterized by the presence of two large islets that transform the sea stretch in front of it into a narrow two-armed channel, within which the space of the port has been carved out. Which, of course, has no usual shape: it is a very long quayside (over 1 kilometer) that follows the porofile of the coast.

Paxos, very close to Corfu, is an excellent starting point for the other larger islands in the archipelago, such as Lefkada (Lefkas), Kefalonia, and Zakynthos; but it offers excellent tourist attractions in itself and is certainly worth even a quick visit.

Gaios is the main center of the island (which has just over two thousand inhabitants in all) and is a quaint fishing village; the other population centers are Lakka, on the coast overlooking Corfu, and Loggos, midway between the other two. They do not offer renowned tourist attractions but will delight you with pastel-hued Venetian-style houses and the simplicity of the places.

Opposite Gaios is the islet of Agios Nikolaos, which can be visited with a permit issued by the town hall of the village. It offers a Venetian fort and a church as attractions; otherwise, relaxing natural surroundings and beautiful sea.

On Paxos you can move around easily by bicycle; on two wheels you can reach the beautiful small beaches that are on the northeast coast of the island, between Gaios and Loggos. On the other side of the island, however, there are many caves that are worth a visit; there are tourist boats that run throughout the day.

It is precisely tourism that is one of the small island’s major sources of income; throughout the day, boats arrive from various destinations (including from Italy) and load and unload tourists. In fact, part of the Gaios port quay between 10 a.m. and 5 p.m. is reserved for the exclusive use of boats (the reserved sections are located on the south and west piers).

Getting to Paxos is not a problem per se. The nature of the ports, however, requires that some care be taken during entry and in mooring operations. One can enter from the north, leaving the islet of Panagia to the left, or from the south, passing between the two artificial breakwaters that mark the entrance to the harbor proper. The main difference lies in the depths: just 2 to 2.5 meters in the south and 10 to 3.5 in the
northern part. If you opt for the entrance from the north pay attention
also to the sharp sharp bend that the channel makes and which you have to go along with, just before the entrance to the real part of the port: in the early afternoon the traffic of tourist boats is really heavy, keep well to starboard and warn of your presence if necessary. Entry from the south is strongly discouraged in southerly winds, the depth is very shallow and strong waves are created.

Once you enter ports, several possibilities open up. First, it should be mentioned that wherever you decide to moor, space is tight and care must be taken during mooring maneuvers. A daily tourist tax is collected by the port police, the office is located on the quay. Also here ask about the prepaid card that allows you to use the (few) columns that provide water and electricity.

Entering from the north, the first available pier is the north pier, which provides space for 20-25 boats moored stern to the dock and anchor at the bow. The depth is 2-2.5 meters.

After the sharp bend begins the west pier, the first 50 meters of which are reserved from 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. for daily transit boats. The remaining 50 meters are free for mooring and can fit about a dozen boats. Good tender bottom, mud, but don’t spin too much chain otherwise boats arriving and departing might get on top of yours.

The south pier is the port proper and is located just in front of the village of Gaios. Here, too, a section is reserved from 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. The depth here drops to around 2 meters. The pier then continues to the south entrance of the harbor.

As far as services are concerned, you fall a little short. Water and electricity for a fee, as mentioned above, and the possibility of refueling via small tanks is all that Gaios offers. Besides, of course, bars, restaurants, taverns, and small supermarkets, which are not lacking in the village.

If you can’t find a place in ports, there is still the possibility of anchoring inside the channel or close to the islet of Agios Nikolaos. The best place is in front of the north pier, at the south end of the northern branch of the channel: mud and seaweed bottom, good tenor, depth 6-8 meters, drop anchor and pull two lines to the islet.

Another option is to moor on either side of the breakwater located between the two islets, depths on the 5-8 meters and sand and mud bottoms.

Third and final option is to put in southeast of the islet of Agios Nikolaos, where the depths are around 6-10 meters and the bottom is sand and kelp. It all depends on the wind. If the wind is from the north or northwest (as is most often the case), anchor southeast of the islet; if the wind is from the south, however, this anchorage and the entire southern part of the harbor become places to avoid at all costs, especially for rolling, so opt for the two anchorages that offer shelter to the north, where moreover the depth is greater and the waves less destructive.

Enrico Gusella

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Enrico Gusella

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