Livadia

Halfway between Rhodes and Nisyros is Tilos, in Italian Piscopi, a small island also forming part of the Dodecanese and known to the chronicles for having also changed “hand” several times, they also pass through an Italian domination at the beginning of the last century.

Once an inhabited and thriving island, after World War II (during which the Germans decimated all of the island’s livestock) it saw its population shrink to almost one-fifth of what it was, and today has just over 300 inhabitants divided between the island’s only two population centers.

Regarding its origins, history tells many versions, the most credited of which sees it once connected to Asia Minor and populated by none other than elephants. When the small island broke away and drifted about 10,000 years ago, evolution led elephants to decrease in size, and skeletal remains of this “new” species of small elephants still remain, which today are preserved in the museum in the capital Megalo Chorio.

Instead, its history is as troubled as ever, and the architecture bears the marks; Piscopi has been dominated by Byzantines, Romans, Ottomans, Knights of the Order of St. John, Italians, and Germans. Only since 1948 has it been reunited with Greece. In past centuries it was also frequent prey for pirates, which is why its inhabitants almost never engaged in fishing, preferring to take refuge inland and engage in agriculture and animal husbandry.

Piscopi today is a little gem set in a beautiful sea; it is not a tourist place, do not expect big facilities, choose it instead if you want to indulge in some relaxation in an unspoiled or almost untouched environment. Getting to Piscopi is not problematic; once in the vicinity of the island you can head to the ports of Livadia, located in a wide bay in the southeastern part of the island.

Since the meltemi often blows and blows hard in these parts, the only caution in approaching Livadia is precisely to be careful of the currents in strong winds as you enter the ports. The small harbor is sheltered only by a pier extending in a north-south direction, yet it offers excellent shelter from all winds, especially the northern ones, although with strong southeast winds a small current manages to enter. Other current is generated by the ferries and tourist boats that shuttle to the island and moor right by the wide pier.

Within the port, moorings for transit boats are located (15 in number) at the village quay. There are mooring lines and anchor is given in an excellent sand and rock bottom tenor. The only downside is the depths, less than 3 meters at the dock but in some areas bordering on a meter; the other mooring opportunity is inside the dock but depends on whether or not there are ferries running, you will only know once you get to the ports. The depth there is 6-7 meters.

As for services, there are water and electricity stations at the dock; there is no possibility of refueling but a gas station is not far away. The ports are under video surveillance, and one can feel safe leaving the boat for a walking tour. Taverns, bars, small supermarkets are not lacking in the village.

The ports are very busy in summer, especially July and August, so if you should not find room you can drop anchor in the large bay that houses it; beware, however, that in moderate or strong winds the mooring is at risk of holding.

Other alternatives on Piscopi are Eristos Bay, on the northwestern part of the southern coast, and Agios Antonios Bay at the northwestern end: the former is sheltered from the north and the sandy bottom holds well, while the latter is fully exposed to the north

Enrico Gusella

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Enrico Gusella

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