Spetses

The ports of the southern Peloponnese share the common characteristic of being too often undersized compared to the seasonal traffic they are supposed to handle. The public port of Spetses, a picturesque island located just opposite Porto Heli, is no exception. The island is worth a visit, for sure, but we strongly advise you to avoid the high season.

First a Venetian, then an Albanian and then an Ottoman dominion, the island of Spetses gained a reputation over the centuries for the warship builders who resided here. The island’s fleet also played a key role during the war of independence from the Ottoman Empire. The old shipyards have been renovated over the years; one of them now houses a museum.

Otherwise, the small island is overgrown with pine trees and rather uninhabited, if you make an exception for the small town to the southeast; there are no drive ways, in Spetses you still get around in horse-drawn carriages!

The island’s only port is located right at the foot of the small town. It is built in a unique natural inlet, very deep and for that reason also very sheltered. But also … very small: impossible to find a place on weekends in summer, unlikely even during the week throughout the high season. Spetses is also a tourist destination for many boats carrying tourists from Athens and other centers, so traffic within the small port is not to be underestimated.

Getting to Spetses, by contrast, presents no particular problems. For those arriving from the east, there is only to beware of outcropping rocks that are not always marked near Cape Emilianos; keep a safe distance from the coast.

Upon reaching Spetses, one must enter the bay that houses the old port. In the outermost, widest part, there are few mooring options for boaters: one can either opt for the short pier just inside, on the right, or drop anchor 4-5 meters from the shore and pull a mooring line ashore; both shores are in fact very rocky and offer a few good handholds (they must be chosen carefully, however).

The innermost part of the port is the port proper, the old port, which offers a quay that is not exactly short but always so crowded that it is very difficult to find a free place. Watch out in any case for the seabed: you can find everything-anchors, catenaries, even some small wrecks. So be careful when dropping anchor.

Be careful even if you arrive for the weekend: you can run the real risk of finding your way blocked by boaters arriving from Athens for the weekend, finding yourself forced to stay in port until Sunday evening or Monday morning.

For a quick stop for a few hours, you can leave the boat — by asking permission — moored near the fuel station; if you stay overnight, however, you will have to pay 25 euros. Always ask the ports staff for information.

The services present are very basic: water and fuel on the dock. There are no columns with electricity. There are, however, excellent wooden boat repair services and a well-stocked nautical store. There is no shortage of stores, garbage bins, and of course bars, restaurants, and taverns.

Since, as mentioned, it is difficult to find a place in ports in the warm season, we suggest an alternative: the beautiful and wide Zoyoryia Bay at the opposite (northwest) end of the island. Also rather crowded in summer, but more feasible. Sand and kelp bottom, good hold, depth 5 to 8 meters. There is also an excellent Greek restaurant in the bay (closed October to May).

Enrico Gusella


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Enrico Gusella

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