Vathi

Vathi is a long, narrow bay located on the east coast of the island of Kalymnos. Rather than a bay, it is more reminiscent of a fjord: a deep inlet, lined with high rocky cliffs, narrow to winding, at the end of which is the small settlement with the port of the same name.

Vathi is somewhat the only landmark on the east coast for boaters passing through Kalymnos; in fact, the other ports and anchorages are almost all on the west side and to the south, where the main port of Kalymnos, with about 80 berths, is located. The exception is Port Akti, a bay just to the south of that of Vathi, a good anchorage point even if poorly sheltered from the meltemi.

Calimnos is certainly not the busiest Greek island, but that does not mean it cannot deserve your attention. Far from it: Calimnos has a charm all its own; it is a mountainous and barren island with few exceptions, one of which is the very hinterland of Vathi. A green and fertile valley, where, in fact, agriculture is practiced, and where figs, oranges, and olive trees are grown, producing some of the island’s typical products (among which honey, which is highly prized, is one of them).

But Calimno, the island of sponge fishermen-in centuries past, its inhabitants annually traveled along the North African coasts to fish for natural sponges, they were the best at it and the best known, until the advent of synthetic sponges-is also known for its rugged coastline, often high above the sea, and for being quite a windy place.

This is precisely why Vathi has earned a certain reputation over the years; thanks to its narrow and long shape, the bay provides good shelter from the winds; it is a place to shelter, in short. It is not exempt from gusts and currents, when the meltemi blows hard or when the wind comes in from the east (the bay is open just in that direction); the nearby heights in this respect do not help, ensuring almost daily rather tense breezes. But Vathi still remains a rather sheltered place, especially if you are “escaping” from northerly winds.

In contrast, because of its natural conformation, Vathi Bay does not get along very well with the heavy ferry traffic that passes right in front of it. The number of ferries has increased, their speed is often high (even beyond the allowed limit) and they often generate large waves that “funnel” into the long inlet causing quite a few inconveniences in ports.
There is to add that the bottom is not very good keeper: sand and seaweed, be careful to make sure that the anchor has actually caught well and keep a good distance from the dock, if you do not want to incur unpleasant accidents in case there is a lot of dancing due to waves.

Within the bay, the ports are located at the very end, in front of the village of Rina, and consist of a long quay bank. Depths are acceptable (just over 2 meters), but still beware of concrete blocks here and there that significantly reduce the average depth and keep a good distance from the dock. As services, there is nothing. No columns, no fuel, you can find a water connection by asking for information.

What to do in Rina. First, rest and refresh yourself in one of the taverns overlooking the central square, which offer good food. Secondly, it is worth visiting the fertile valley behind the settlement, rich in citrus groves, and, if you want, there are also two villages not far away, Platanos and Stimenia, which preserve archaeological remains of ancient civilizations. As for seaside tourism, the Port Atki Bay mentioned earlier offers beautiful golden beaches, while the sea is crystal clear and beautiful everywhere around Vathi Bay.

Daniele Scarpellini

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Daniele Scarpellini

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